The Lifeline 375 Lumen Front Line Bike Light is simple to use and very affordable. Weighing in at 115g, it isn't too heavy and from the casual to the committed cyclist, it offers a great light that will see you down some pretty dark roads.

Some people prefer something with a lot of Lumens, and with lights going much brighter than this, there is a lot of competition on the market. However, lights with more Lumens do end up coming with a higher price tag. It is worth considering what you expect your light to do before spending over £100 on one bright enough to light up a whole road.

The Lifeline is perfect for a number of activities both on and off road. I tried it on well-lit streets as well as darker paths and felt safe in that I could be seen by other road users as well as see in front of me.

The light has three modes, all accessed by a single button on top. The first mode is high-beam which will last around an hour. If you use this one constantly it is worth being aware that it will run out quite quickly and I would only advise using this when you really need it due to its time limitations.

The second mode is low light which will last a respectable 4 hours and this is perfect for commuting. The third mode is a flashing mode, again good for commuting and increasing visibility and you get around 9 hours in this mode. If your journey is a mix of dark paths and lit streets, it is really easy to quickly change between modes.

Charging the light uses a USB cable meaning you can easily recharge it at work before your journey home. It takes 4 hours from a dead light to be fully charged again.

It comes with a really easy-to-use bike mount and has three rubber size adjusters, fitting the majority of handlebars. It is quick to get the light on and off the mount, even with gloves on. The same goes for operating the light with gloves on. The button is easy to press with or without gloves.

The light is hooded meaning that the beam has a slightly longer top than the bottom. This works really quite well and doesn't then blind oncoming traffic, whilst being bright enough for you to see.

Testing the water resistance of the light wasn't difficult in Scotland. It has rained a lot lately. It is worth noting that the light isn't waterproof (nor does it claim to be), but it is water-resistant so it will withstand a short shower.

The price of the light is really not bad. If you look around it can be cheaper and it is a good light for the price. It is easy to use and perfect as a multi-purpose commuter/weekend rider light.

The Garmin Vector bike pedals give you a power rating for your ride which you can use to partner with Strava and obtain very detailed data about your cycling and training.

When I purchased the Garmin Vector 1 I was under the impression that a future software update would allow you to monitor your full pedal stroke. This update never came, until I heard of the Vector 2. The Vector 1 shows plenty of data and like most data files out there it really has no point unless you use that data. I find myself focusing on average three second power while riding. Live power is too up-and-down, for example if you're pulling out from the lights, overtaking another cyclist, or if you stop. But having a constant three second average on show gives you enough time to flatten out your efforts.

When you cycle the same routes and the same hills you can really get to know what your max effort is and how much more you have in the tank. Of course, your body will really tell you if you have anything left to put down, but sometimes it is nice to know for real; “you can do this”.

For the first year of riding with the Vector 1, I didn't even bother with heart rate data, but I was introduced to Strava fitness and freshness that relies on power and also heart rate data to show you how strong you really are. I'm not sure how accurate or reliable the data from Strava but it uses your power to produce fitness and freshness. According to my personal graphs, my fitness is much better in the summer which does marry up with my bike riding and training.

Strava Fitness and Freshness. You will require a premium account, power meters, and heart rate data to access this.

Best Efforts Power Curve

Watts per kilo

Another great thing that you can get from is Strava with your power data is your FTP and also your power to weight calculations. In theory, you don't need Strava for this data but Strava pulls all the data out for you in a nice graph that you can really visualise and start to understand.

So the consideration to buy a power meter is certainly a big purchase and there are now more options on the market than ever before. Coming in at £999.99 and costing more than the price of an average road bike, it was something I had to weigh up between either getting a new set of wheels, or an awesome power meter. My reading, research, and tips and tricks from friends told me to get a power meter. It will make you a stronger rider whereas carbon wheels will just allow you small benefits but not actually improve your ‘engine’. 

Verdict

Riding for several years with a power meter on its own won't make you faster, but it will build your power if you use the data to start to push yourself harder and harder. Can I justify a spend of £1000 plus to get what I currently know? Is that extra bit of data from Garmin worth over £1000? If you use the data properly, then this piece of kit can really improve your performance, and if you are a seasoned athlete or cyclist, then this can be invaluable.